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A Singapore Story

I have been away from 'home' full time for almost five years now. Even though I've lived in other countries in the past, I never stopped seeing Singapore as 'home'. 'Home' was where my family, childhood home, friends, food, favorite places, and memories were. I was afloat, in that I was quite literally all over the world, but I was rooted. Every once in a while I floated my way 'home'.

This time it's different. I've built a home elsewhere, in San Francisco, with my wife. We have a life here. We have two senior pets, who we love very much. Our home, in the literal sense, is a comfortable apartment in the center of San Francisco. It is perhaps one of the first 'homes' my wife has had, but I am feeling.. no, struggling, with the idea that I never quite got to say goodbye to my 'home'.

For Singaporeans abroad, it usually means home in a literal sense shifts from under your feet. Our little island city state country where the capital of Singapore is Singapore moves on and on without you. Buildings change. Entire neighborhoods emerge. Two new train lines appear, like mushrooms after the rains. You needn't even have been gone for very long. It just happens. That's how it is. (I've examined this many, many times in the past, with no conclusion.)

The neighborhood I ran around in as a child, after Sunday school, and as an adult, as I lived there, is now gone. Most of it, anyway. They moved most people out of Tanglin Halt, the neighborhood that was home to Singapore's first high rise public housing apartments, to build even taller ones. Even today, you can get into a cab and tell the driver (of any ethnicity) that you want to go to zap lau (ten floors, in Hokkien) and they know exactly where to take you. To Tanglin Halt, the site of Singapore's very first ten story tall public housing buildings.

a color photograph of an old neighborhood in Singapore with people walking past food sellers in a low rise building

Tanglin Halt food stalls I have been eating at since I was a child.

a color photograph of shuttered shops on the ground floor of a deserted building

My favorite old school Chinese bakery with the best donuts and Hai Lam bread is gone.

a color photograph of a Singapore subway train station above ground, with tropical plants in the foreground

A friend of mine lived in a newer building in Tanglin Halt. On the 25th floor. We went to that house in May. When we visited again in October, he had moved down the street to another neighborhood with even taller buildings. He now lives on the 40th floor.

This is the neighborhood I lived in since I was born. While I was away, my parents moved to the 25th floor of brand new public housing apartments 7 minutes away, right next to the train station. It was their wish to be close to a mall and a train station in their old age so they don't feel too isolated as they get older. In October, I said bye to the home and the neighborhood knowing I will probably rarely go there again. Which is a weird thought, since it was all I'd known as 'home'.

a color photograph of some tropical plants in the foreground and red and white colored apartments in the background

I noticed things I never did when I actually lived there. Like all of the plants in front of my 'block'.

a color photograph of a view from a window that looks into tall buildings. a metal piece that looks strange is attached to a window.

The view from my mum's old kitchen. The metal stuff sticking out of the kitchen window is a laundry pole holder. We put our clothes on bamboo sticks, then stick the stick into the laundry pole holder, and air dry clothes that way. The traditional way. Nicer than a dryer.

My apartment overlooked a bad mall. But it was where I went to spend all my money at the arcade (Time Crisis 2, I still resent you); meet dates, grab food, shop for groceries. It was my bad mall. I don't think I will miss it. But it will be weird to not longer have it in my life.

a color photograph of a view of a Singapore mall next to a canal and tall buildings around it

Farewell, West Coast Plaza.

I am frequently traipsing around in the green bits of Singapore. There's quite a lot of it, actually. Many of the 'wilder' bits I used to walk around in for fun, now have names and signs and sometimes, buildings. Like the Green Corridor. I liked the tropical forest. I even lived in one for a while.

a color photograph of some green trees and blue skies in Singapore

Some trees near Queensway. View from the road. I lived in an old house deep inside, which could be accessed via a shortcut through this bit of green. They're building on it now.

a color photograph of a queer couple in wedding clothes walking along a bridge that is in a forest in Singapore

I like the trees so much, I even had my wedding photos taken there. These were the former railway tracks to Malaysia.

In the end, I'm just but a small cog in the wheel that is Singapore, that keeps turning. My memories and my life there fade every year. It's the same, but different (for me). When we took that photo in our wedding whites at the train tracks in Bukit Timah, we were about to move to the United States. I guess intellectually I knew what was going to happen. But emotionally? I was never ready. Maybe I still am not.

All photos taken on Ricoh GR III


A Walk Around a Wet Market in Taiping, Malaysia

Wet markets have a bad reputation, because of the 'rona, but their name really just comes from being the opposite of a 'dry market' (like a market that sells pots and pans and such). They are very common in many parts of Asia and don't have wildlife. For many of us, a wet market is our first port of call to make the delicious foods from our part of the world.

These photos are from a wet market in Taiping, Perak, my wife's hometown. We visited with my mother-in-law and her sister, who were preparing a large family feast for the first reunion in the Taiping home in a very, very long time.

a digital photograph of a market in Malaysia with lots of eggs

Eggs

a digital photograph of a market in Malaysia with lots of salted fish

Salted fish

a digital photograph of a market in Malaysia

Essential items

a digital photograph of a market in Malaysia with a menu for all kinds of noodles and items

Aromatics

a digital photograph of a few people's feet as they stand near some flowers and other types of local aromatics used in Malaysian cooking

Potatoes

a digital photograph of a large wok full of chillies and stink beans being cooked into a sambal

Sambal

I can still taste that sambal. What passes for sambal in the United States (Huy Fong sambal oelek!!) makes me so, so sad.

Lately, I've been thinking about how growing up in Peninsular Malaysia and Singapore (and spending lots of time in Thailand, Indonesia, India) really spoiled me where food is concerned.

The food ways I am used to: buying fresh food. On a daily basis. At wet markets. Learning to cook traditional foods from skilled older people from different cultures.

All of those things are vastly different from a convenience-first food culture where I now live in the United States. Even though California, and San Francisco in particular, has a reputation for being farm to table, and for having good quality food, I do find myself feeling, quite often, like I never knew how good I had it until I left Southeast Asia. California is good, for food: my part of the world is better. That's how I feel, anyway. Being able to wake up in any of those countries and grabbing one of many hot breakfasts. Being able to eat hot, savory, spicy food all day, everyday, including at 3 or 5 in the morning. Being spoiled silly, really, by aunties of all types. Being surrounded by people who want to feed you all day, every single day.

Taiping, Perak in Malaysia is one of my favorite little towns. It has beautiful weather and scenery, an interesting history, and some of the best food I've had anywhere. I dreamed of the simple bowls of noodle soups I've had there (Restoran Kakak!!!), for years, until I went back again in 2022 to visit my wife's family. You've not had noodles until you've had the kway teow tng at Restoran Kakak. It takes skill, and really 'giving a damn' to make food like that. I think Taiping (and Perak as a whole) has a higher density of people who 'give a damn (about making food in a very specific way)'. And that's just normal, there.


2 posts tagged "ricoh"