Taj Mahal Foxtrot

A note from New Delhi Taj Mahal Foxtrot, namesake of the book by the same name by naresh.fernandes Another new year, another bad habit: I’m late, again. Just a few days ago, I was sitting at the back of a Toyota Innova, stuffing my face with mithai and chips — not at the same time [...]

Quora: Is it safe for a single woman to travel alone in India?

This entry is part 1 of 1 in the series Quora

This entry is part 1 of 1 in the series QuoraHere I start a series of my best answers on Quora, starting with this one. It still has the highest numbers of upvotes! For those of you who don’t know, Quora is an amazing community full of smart people asking and answering interesting questions. I [...]

Lakewood

This entry is part 3 of 3 in the series Notes from a Rickshaw

A crash. A breakdown. 200 kilometres in the opposite direction. Andrew and I were left without our native son, and we screwed it up in as many ways as it was possible to. Yercaud more than made up for it, though.

The Great Southern Trunk Road

This entry is part 2 of 3 in the series Notes from a Rickshaw

If you looked on a map, the holy southern Indian city is merely 185 kilometres from Madras. If you took a bus, it would take just under five hours. If you travelled by car, perhaps three and a little bit. Since we took an autorickshaw, our estimated travel time was something like eight hours. Or before nightfall; whichever came first.

We Have No Dungarees, Saar

This entry is part 1 of 3 in the series Notes from a Rickshaw

There are slower ways of seeing India. On a buffalo. On a “two wheeler”, a motorcycle, stacked to great heights with assorted luggage until you can’t see what’s in front of you. Or on foot, “by walk”, like a sadhu with no clothes on.

We travelled by autorickshaw.

Bombay Burning

I don’t have to tell you what happened in Mumbai. You already know it. I wasn’t there that day, and although I may at some point in the future, I have never lived here. Not in the real sense of ‘living’ somewhere, with bank accounts and rented residences, or jobs. But Mumbai is my city, [...]

Sudder Street

This entry is part 6 of 9 in the series Travel Snippets

This entry is part 6 of 9 in the series Travel SnippetsReposting stuff I like from the archives. This is from 2007. At the stroke of eight each morning, I awoke. All my days in India have always had purpose, and it was especially purposeful in Calcutta, my crazy, lovely, chaotic, I hate you I [...]

Hungry Asian Woman On The Road

This entry is part 7 of 9 in the series Travel Snippets

This entry is part 7 of 9 in the series Travel SnippetsReposting stuff from the past. This one’s from 2007. I’m a horrendously bad sightseer and tourist, that much is true. You have no idea how bad I am. I almost never manage to visit any of the attractions of the city — unless they’re [...]

A Bus and Chai Story

This entry is part 6 of 12 in the series Portraits of Love

This entry is part 6 of 12 in the series Portraits of LoveReposting stuff I like from my archives. This is from 2006. Rajasthan, at the peak of summer. There are no tourists around for miles, except the two of us. For a good reason too. Tell any Indian you were in Rajasthan in May, [...]

Portraits Unphotographable

This entry is part 1 of 9 in the series Travel Snippets

This entry is part 1 of 9 in the series Travel SnippetsWhether it’s a long-haul transatlantic flight or a regional short hop, or even just a trip out on a local bus, the process of meeting and eventually talking to strangers, can lead one to use quick heuristics in sizing them up. Perhaps it’s our [...]