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Needed: Nepal Experts

What shouldn’t I miss in a month in Nepal? Trekking—package, or independent? How much? Where—Dolpo, Mustang, Manang, Jomsom? And how—I probably won’t be flying, not even once; I don’t want to. I’ll be there in August, though I know it’s not a great time with the monsoon and all; I’ll be taking the land borders into Nepal at Bhairawa, and out from Birgunj. Should I take the advice of my Nepali friends and go live among the Maoists in Rolpa? Is the “Hotel At The End of the Universe” in Nagarkot any good? Is that delicacy of goats’ lungs filled with milk really as good as my friend Anil says it is? Where’s the best place for a momo? Where can I pick up good quality salwar kameez? You know, things like that! I have this vision of me sitting in my hotel looking at the a view like this, on the phone with my editor… “I’ll be done with the story… soon…”. And can a train expert tell me the best way to get out of Raxual and out of Bihar (I’ll admit: I’m scared) other than towards Kolkata on the Mithila Express? I’m so pleased to be finally headed for Nepal. I know one month is too short, but I need to spend the rest of my time in India.

Fire away!

9 Comments

  1. Seraphim — 31 May, 2007 #

    Namaste,

    I’d like to help but the last time I was there was more than 14 years ago! Ahh miss those days before the invasion of the internet tourists …

  2. popagandhi — 31 May, 2007 #

    :) try bhutan

  3. Aayush — 1 June, 2007 #

    I remember being to the hotel when I was a kid. And though I might be viewing it with rose-tint glasses, I don’t think there’s anything quite like it.

    Trying to dig up some old pictures of the place

  4. Kyels — 1 June, 2007 #

    I’d love to explore Nepal one day. I’ve seen photos of the place and it’s really, really beautiful, imho.

    [:

  5. Vid — 14 June, 2007 #

    Will you be coming to bangalore?

  6. popagandhi — 14 June, 2007 #

    Yes, I will, but quite briefly.

  7. Vid — 15 June, 2007 #

    Well you have my email give me a buzz when your n bean town. Will give u the ‘local’ guide

  8. Sabu — 23 June, 2007 #

    Namaste: I’ve enjoyed following your travels and wanted to thank you for helping those of us who are tied into our jobs and family responsibilities and can no longer roam as freely. Although I haven’t been back to Nepal since my honeymoon in 1982, I spent almost 2 years there throughout the seventies—- I managed to do my college thesis on the impact of the “green revolution” on the Nepali hill farmer which required that I trek the hillsides interviewing farmers. First, I would not recommend a package tour. Better to travel alone or with a friend, especially since most routes are well traveled with guest houses in each village. Since Pokhara is so incredibly beautiful, a trek from near Pokhara may be the easiest on your schedule. The treks described in outtheresomewhere (thanks for the link some months ago)up to Poon Hill are well traveled but very senic. You’ll need a sleeping bag (just so your sleeping in your own sheets)but no real hiking gear or food etc. If you go all the way to Mustang, you’ll probably need to fly to Jomsoom—which is a desolate spot—but will get you on your way. When I did the Annapurna Circuit, Mustang was still closed and I got caught trying to sneak in (of course) so never made it but it’s up on the Tibetian plateau and would be a great contrast to Nepal. But that will require some time. There are a couple other treks in the Dhaulagiri range area, like Churen alpine area which are relatively unvisited but would, I think, require a guide and/or porter. A guide or porter might be a good idea in any event as you might enjoy the trek better without a load. 2 other thoughts—north of Kathmandu is a trek to Gosaikunda (sp) lakes above some sherpa villages (but w/o having to fly to the Everest region which is crowded and subject to many delays). Also, on the way to Pokhara is a trek (w/ a road at least part way now) to Gurka—the village where the kings (ex kings? family came from in the 1700s to conquer the Kathmandu valley. A much more substantial village than any other hill village I encountered with some side treks into the mountains.

    Travel light and hang close to the Nepalis….you’ll love it.

    I’m going to email you a great book to raed about village life in the hills.

    I’m hoping to be in Thailand for Christmas so I’m following your island blogs closely.

  9. popagandhi — 23 June, 2007 #

    @Sabu: wow, thanks! I am trying to get to Mustang — ideally I’d like to go to Dolpa. But they are all so far away and not the best places to do when budget is right ;)

    Thanks for all the info, and please do email me!

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