The Magic of Luang Prabang

One of the countless statues inside the Pak Ou Caves near Luang Prabang

The Lao city of Luang Prabang is wonderfully understated. It doesn’t feel like the second largest city of a country, and in fact barely feels city-like. It doesn’t feel like the smoggy, dusty Asian towns I’m used to either. Being “up north”, as we Southeast Asia backpackers call it, the weather is wonderful in December and January. The night market around which the bulk of hotels and restaurants cluster around is perfect for an evening stroll and light shopping; the next day, proceed to the Pak Ou Caves (see above), and work in a trip to the Ban Xieng Lek weaving village and Ban Sang Hai, where traditional whisky (lao lao) is distilled.

It’s a perfect place to be for early risers — arise at 5 to spend time with the monks at one of the many temples, then climb up to Mount Phou Si for some morning exercise. Pop in to Tamarind restaurant for lunch: genuine Lao food can be had in charming environs, directly facing the beautiful Wat Nong temple. The tasting platters, at US$1.50 on average, consist of a handful of Lao snacks. All food in Laos seem to be complemented wonderfully by the local brew of Beer Lao (arguably the best beer in Asia), especially with the Beer Lao tasting platter. Tamarind’s long list of original smoothies and tea concoctions are also notable. If you have more than one afternoon, Tamarind will be happy to offer you traditional Lao style meals (I tried the village feast) for around US$8 per person.

After lunch, proceed to spend an afternoon at the L’estranger Books and Tea” behind Mount Phousi — it’s a bookshop, tearoom and art gallery. Around dinner time, spend some time watching the back lanes near the night market spring to life as street vendors set up shop. Pick up enough feu ga, grilled fish, tam som, grilled chicken, dessert and copious amounts of Beer Lao for 2 people, and hand over US$3 in cash, and don’t be surprised to still get change from that. Breakfast the next morning will be baguette and pate, or feu ga by the streets (for under US$1); some might say the good things the colonialists have done for Laos (and Indochina) was to leave it with good bread and baguettes, a disproportionate number of excellent small French restaurants, and Beer Lao.

As a UNESCO World Heritage city, the number of charming places to stay in are numerous. There’s the 3 Nagas, with an onsite restaurant much raved about; for something cheaper, and which you can’t go wrong with, the Sala Prabang (facing the Mekong) from my favourite Sala Lao group is recommended as well. Even if you’re on a shoestring, a US$10 room at the Rattana Guesthouse gets you a very cosy room for 2, with 24/7 air-conditioning, hot water and electricity.

Getting there is the tricky bit. If you can afford to fly, Lao Aviation and Vietnam Airlines fly via Bangkok and Singapore (and Siem Reap, I think). Prices are not cheap, somewhere in the region of >US$100 one way. The more interesting journey to take is to take a bus from Bangkok (from Mochit, approx. 600 baht) or Chiang Mai/Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong. From Chiang Khong it’s a short ride across the river into the Lao border at Huay Xai. Getting to Luang Prabang here either consists of a 6 hour rocket boat ride (approx. 1200 baht, crash helmet and life jacket included but bring your own ear plugs), or a scenic cruise down the Mekong on a slow boat for two days (stops over at Pak Beng for a night). The rocket boat is dangerous, for sure, but adrenalin junkies would really appreciate it. For those heading for Laos out of Singapore your options have vastly increased: Tiger Airways now goes to Udon Thani in Thailand, from where you can get to Vientiane in an hour. From Vientiane, Luang Prabang is only 8 hours away by bus. Or fly to Bangkok and take the overnight train into Nong Khai, then cross the Friendship Bridge to Vientiane from there. (Or fly Tiger to Hanoi and get on the bus for 24 hours!)

All that said, Beer Lao is a good enough reason to visit Laos. (/fangirl) I like it so much I’m trying to get my favourite neighbourhood restaurant to carry it so that Beer Lao will always be two steps away.

Note: Those with Singapore passports no longer need visas for Lao PDR. All other nationalities, US$30.