The D Word

Dysentery, Diarrhea, and (Finally) Darjeeling

Factoid #1
Dysentery is a great way to lose weight. It is, however, not very pleasant.

Factoid #2
If you haven’t been struck by general travellers’ diarrhea by the end of your first week – you’re not travelling hard enough.

Factoid #3
Darjeeling is COLD. I am walking around in jeans and a pullover – the same getup I wear to class. The fact that it is 3 degrees is, I am aware, a problem.

I had one of the worst nights on the train a few nights ago. The train was weird – Indian Railways is efficient, and (in some classes) very clean and comfortable. The class we were travelling by was, however, too comfortable and too clean for me. We went by Tier 3A (air-conditioned berths): the air-conditioning was so strong that I froze the whole night. It didn’t help, either, that I was positioned next to two air-con vents, in addition to already having terrible menstrual cramps and a weird stomach. Oral Rehydrating Salts are the traveller’s best friend. The worst of my illness has blown over, but Z. is now sicker than I ever was.

Darjeeling was all set up to be interesting: the moment I got to my guesthouse, the lady said – “Are you Popagandhi?” (No, this site’s fame hadn’t spread to the hill stations. It so happened that I had mentioned I wanted to book this hotel but it didn’t take reservations; someone who was at this hotel one week ago showed the owner my photo and told her to keep a room..)

Z. and I have got ourselves one guy each. Brothers, in fact – both Nepali from Darjeeling. My “guy”, Nardeep, is an Indian Army officer based in Jaisalmer, resting at home at the moment. They’ve been taking us around on their motorbikes, cruising down to Ghoom and to Teesta. Being on a motorbike at that kind of altitude (>7000ft) is… to say the least, cold.

I’m feeling quite sick and demoralized. Maybe some Darjeeling tea will help.